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><A
NAME="basics"
></A
>3. Buying the Basics</H1
><P
>In this section, we cover things to look out for that are more or less
independent of price-performance tradeoffs, part of your minimum system
for running Unix.</P
><P
>Issues like your choice of disk, processor, and I/O bus (where there is
a significant tradeoff between price and capability) are covered in the section
on <A
HREF="optimize.html"
>What To Optimize</A
>.</P
><DIV
CLASS="sect2"
><H2
CLASS="sect2"
><A
NAME="AEN132"
></A
>3.1. Things to Not Care About</H2
><P
>An effect of PC commoditization is that there aren lots of things
you used to have to worry about that don't matter any more, because
the market has completely flattened out. We list these here to get them
out of the way.</P
><DIV
CLASS="sect3"
><H3
CLASS="sect3"
><A
NAME="buswars"
></A
>3.1.1. Bus Wars</H3
><P
>The system bus is what ties all the parts of your machine together.
This is an area in which progress has simplified your choices a lot. There
used to be no fewer than <EM
>four</EM
> competing bus standards
out there (ISA, EISA, VESA/VLB, PCI, and PCMCIA). Now there are
effectively just <EM
>two</EM
> &#8212;PCI-X on servers, and PCIe
for desktop/tower machines. Even PCI is now legacy technology, and the
PCMCIA bus that seemed so important a few years back has been reduced to
near-irrelevance by Ethernet, USB, and WiFi hardware built onto
motherboards. The newcomer is PCIe, which is (in late 2007) a
&#8216;video-card-mostly&#8217; bus, though it seems to be gaining in
popularity for other uses too on mainstream desktop motherboards, whereas
PCI-X is only found on higher end &#8216;server&#8217; motherboards.
</P
></DIV
><DIV
CLASS="sect3"
><H3
CLASS="sect3"
><A
NAME="memory"
></A
>3.1.2. Memory</H3
><P
>Judging the memory-controller and cache design used to be one of the
trickiest parts of evaluating a motherboard, but that stuff is all baked
into the processor itself now. This removed a large source of latency and
design variations. It also killed off the plethora of different RAM
types that used to be out there.</P
><P
>Today's advice is very simple. Make sure the memory is rated for your
machine's bus speed, then buy as much as you can afford to stuff in your
machine.</P
><DIV
CLASS="note"
><P
></P
><TABLE
CLASS="note"
WIDTH="100%"
BORDER="0"
><TR
><TD
WIDTH="25"
ALIGN="CENTER"
VALIGN="TOP"
><IMG
SRC="../images/note.gif"
HSPACE="5"
ALT="Note"></TD
><TD
ALIGN="LEFT"
VALIGN="TOP"
><P
>DDR3 RAM is beginning to appear. Right now its extra expense
over DDR2 is not worth paying, for all but extremely specialized needs. It
is almost always <EM
>far</EM
> more useful to have 4GB of
reasonably fast RAM, than 2GB of very fast RAM, in your
machine.</P
></TD
></TR
></TABLE
></DIV
><P
>For more technical stuff on memory architectures, see <A
HREF="http://www.kingston.com/tools/umg/default.asp"
TARGET="_top"
>The Ultimate Memory
Guide</A
> maintained by Kingston Technologies.</P
></DIV
><DIV
CLASS="sect3"
><H3
CLASS="sect3"
><A
NAME="mice"
></A
>3.1.3. Keyboards and Mice</H3
><P
>Keyboards are mostly generic nowadays. One useful piece of advice is
to not buy any desktop machine with <SPAN
CLASS="QUOTE"
>"Internet"</SPAN
> buttons on it;
this is a sure sign of a PC that's an overpriced glitzy toy. Nowadays
keyboards with a USB connector are the norm, rather than the older
dedicated connectors; modern open-source Unixes handle these
just fine.</P
><P
>Mice and trackballs used to be simple; then, thanks to Microsoft,
they got complicated. Now they're simple again. Again, USB mice have
replaced the older PS/2-style dedicated connector. XFree86 autodetects
your mouse when it starts up, so configuration is not a big deal any
more.</P
><P
>Some PC vendors, being Windows-oriented, still bundle two-button
mice. Thus, you may have to buy your own three-button (or two button and a
scroll wheel) mouse. Ignore the adspeak about dpi and pick a mouse or
trackball that feels good to your hand.</P
><P
>Your humble editor really, really likes the Logitech TrackMarble, an
optical trackball that eliminates the chronic roller-fouling problems of
the older TrackMan. They're well-supported by X, so any Linux or BSD will
accept them.</P
></DIV
><DIV
CLASS="sect3"
><H3
CLASS="sect3"
><A
NAME="floppies"
></A
>3.1.4. Floppy Drives</H3
><P
>There's no longer much to be said about floppy drives. They're
cheap, they're generic, and the rise of CD-ROM and DVD-ROM drives as a
cheap distribution medium has made them much less important than formerly.
You only ever see the 3.5-inch &#8216;hard-shell&#8217; floppies with
1.44MB capacity anymore.</P
><P
>Bootable CD-ROMs killed off the last use of floppies, which was OS
installation. So go ahead and settle for cheap Mitsumi and Teac floppy
drives. There are no &#8216;premium&#8217; floppy drives anymore. Nobody
bothers.</P
><P
>It's possible your system won't even include one. No loss.</P
></DIV
><DIV
CLASS="sect3"
><H3
CLASS="sect3"
><A
NAME="cdrom"
></A
>3.1.5. CD-ROM Drives</H3
><P
>Standard CD-ROMs hold about 650 megabytes of read-only data in a
format called ISO-9660 (formerly <SPAN
CLASS="QUOTE"
>"High Sierra"</SPAN
>). All current
Unixes support these devices. Unix and Linux software is now distributed
on ISO-9660 CD-ROM, a cheaper and better method than the QIC tapes we used
to use.</P
><P
>CD-ROM speed used to be a big deal; vendors advertised 2X, 4X, all
the way up to 52X. Vendors don't bother any more; the drives are all about
equivalently fast now.</P
><P
>There are one or two minor features to watch for. Most CD-ROMS will
include a headphone jack so you can play audio CDs on them. Better-quality
ones will also include two RCA jacks for use with speakers. Another
feature to look for is a drive door or seal that protects the drive head
from dust.</P
><P
>Increasingly, DVD-ROM drives (and burners) are replacing CD-ROM drives
as the default optical drive in PC systems. They have significantly larger
capacity, and will read (and burn) CD media too. The cost difference now
is so small that it is usually preferable to buy a DVD burner instead of
a CD-ROM drive.</P
></DIV
><DIV
CLASS="sect3"
><H3
CLASS="sect3"
><A
NAME="backup"
></A
>3.1.6. Backup devices</H3
><P
>It's good to be able to make backups that you can separate from your
system and store off-site in case of disaster. Until about 2001, tape
drives still seemed like a good idea for personal systems, but I found I
seldom used mine. Today, tape drives with high enough capacity to image
today's huge hard disks are too expensive to make sense any more.</P
><P
>For the money you'd spend on a high-capacity tape drive (over $1000)
it makes more sense to buy a laptop and a pile of CD-R or DVD-R or DVD+R
media. Sit the laptop on your house Ethernet when you're not traveling, and
back up the main machine to it every day, or oftener. Between the
efficiency of rsync and the speed of 100-megabit Ethernet, this will be a
lot faster than making a tape. Every once in a while, burn a set of backup
CD-ROMs or DVDROMs.</P
><P
>But CD-ROMs aren't reusable; the cost piles up over time. An
interesting alternative is a small external USB hard drive, especially if
you can salvage an old laptop drive and put it in a USB enclosure. These
enclosures are available for about $30; Google for "USB HD Enclosure". This
is faster than a tape, cheaper and lighter than a full laptop. For faster
transfer speeds, an enclosure that accepts eSATA connections as well as USB
helps a lot (assuming your PC or notebook has an eSATA connector).</P
></DIV
></DIV
><DIV
CLASS="sect2"
><H2
CLASS="sect2"
><A
NAME="processor"
></A
>3.2. How To Pick Your Processor</H2
><P
>Right now (early 2010), the chips to consider for running Unix are
the the 64-bit AMD Opteron or its Intel equivalents, especially the Core 2
Duo. We're long past the point at which 32-bit chips are interesting for
new desktop systems, presuming you could even find one. AMD and Intel built
up a buffer before switching their fabs fully to 64-bit chips in 2006, and
the 32-bit chips you can still find are coming out of warehouses rather
than off production lines.</P
><P
>Brands don't matter much, so don't feel you need to pay Intel's
premiums if you see an attractive Cyrix, AMD or other chip-clone
system offered. In the last few years I've been a big fan of
the AMD line. They used to be faster, cheaper, and better-designed than
Intel processors; today Intel has clawed back the speed advantage, but
AMD chips still deliver more performance than you're likely to be able
to use and do it with lower power dissipation (thus, less noise and
heat).</P
><P
>On the other hand, Intel-chip motherboards now have the advantage
that the on-board graphics chip will give you 3D acceleration with fully
open-source drivers. This will avoid the problems you would otherwise face
trying to select a supported graphics card from ATI or Nvidia.</P
><P
>Many CPUs now are multi-core &#8212; that is, they have multiple CPUs
on a single chip. This is very useful for doing something compute
intensive (re-encoding video, compressing large archives, etc.) in the
background and still having a responsive system for other work at the same
time. At current prices, a dual-core CPU makes good sense for most desktop
systems. If you are building a server or have specialized computing needs
you expect to be very CPU-intensive quad-core is worth considering, but on
a desktop system all the two extra cores will usually do is emit heat. Only
at the very low end (sub US$50 CPUs) do single-core CPUs still make sense
on desktop machines.</P
><P
>Mainstream desktop CPUs now use one of two sockets: LGA 775 (Intel)
and AM2 (AMD). Buying a system that uses one of these stands more chance
of allowing a useful CPU upgrade to extend its useful life than systems
using other less common sockets.</P
><P
>Current CPUs are <EM
>much</EM
> faster than those of just
a few years ago. As a result, unless your needs are highly specialized,
spending more than about US$200 on a desktop CPU is hard to justify. For
most users, putting extra budget into more RAM or a faster disk subsystem
will most likely result in greater benefit.</P
></DIV
><DIV
CLASS="sect2"
><H2
CLASS="sect2"
><A
NAME="twospindles"
></A
>3.3. One Disk or Two?</H2
><P
>I usually build with two disks &#8212; one <SPAN
CLASS="QUOTE"
>"system"</SPAN
> disk
and one <SPAN
CLASS="QUOTE"
>"home"</SPAN
> disk. There are two good reasons to do this
that have nothing to do with the extra capacity. One of them is the
performance advantage of being able to interleave commands to different
physical spindles that we'll explain a bit later in the section on disks.
The other is that I am quite a bit less likely to lose two disks at once
than I am to trash a single one.</P
><P
>Let's suppose you have a fatal disk crash. If you have only one
disk, goodbye Charlie. If you have two, maybe the crashed one was your
system disk, in which case you can buy another and mess around with a new
Linux installation knowing your personal files are safe. Or maybe it was
your home disk; in that case, you can still run and do recovery stuff and
basic Net communications until you can buy another home disk and restore it
from backups (you <EM
>did</EM
> keep backups, right?).</P
><P
>Given today's high capacity drives, another way to use two disks well
is to set them up as a RAID1 (mirrored) array. This can be done in
software or with a hardware RAID controller. This way if either of the two
drives fail, the system will continue to function, no data is lost, and
upon replacing the failed drive, the array can be rebuilt from the
remaining working drive. Hard drives are consumable media, they
<EM
>do</EM
> fail, so this approach (as well as good backups) is
well worth considering.</P
><P
>Buy SATA. The older IDE and EIDE buses are now obsolete, and SCSI no
longer has enough of a cost advantage to justify the premium. In fact, SCSI
has effectively nerged into SCSI; SATA is SCSI commands being shipped over
a single-wire data line.</P
></DIV
><DIV
CLASS="sect2"
><H2
CLASS="sect2"
><A
NAME="cases"
></A
>3.4. Getting Down to Cases</H2
><P
>I used to say that cases are just bent metal, and that it doesn't
much matter who makes those. Unfortunately, this isn't true any more.
Processors run so hot these days that fans and airflow are a serious
concern. They need to be well designed for proper airflow
throughout. </P
><P
>Look for the following quality features:</P
><P
></P
><UL
><LI
><P
>Aluminum rather than steel. It's lighter and conducts
heat better.</P
></LI
><LI
><P
>Unobstructed air intake with at least one fan each
(in addition to the power supply and processor fans)</P
></LI
><LI
><P
>No sharp metal edges. You don't want to shred
your hands when you're tinkering with things.</P
></LI
><LI
><P
>There shouldn't be any hot spots (poor air flow).</P
></LI
><LI
><P
>Sturdy card clips. Some poorly-designed cases allow cards
to wiggle out of their slots under normal vibration.</P
></LI
><LI
><P
>Effective and easy to use mechanisms for attaching hard
drives, CD-ROM, CD-R/W, DVDs, etc.</P
></LI
></UL
><P
>If you're fussy about RFI (Radio-Frequency Interference), it's worth
finding out whether the plastic parts of the case have conductive coating
on the inside; that will cut down emissions significantly, but a few cheap
cases omit it.</P
><P
>Should you buy a desktop or tower case? Our advice is go with tower
unless you're building a no-expansions personal system and expect to be
using the floppies a lot. Many vendors charge nothing extra for a tower
case, and the cost difference will be trivial even if they do. What you
get for that is less desktop clutter, more and bigger bays for expansion,
and often (perhaps most importantly) a beefed-up power-supply and fan.
Putting the box and its fan under a table is good for maybe 5db off the
effective noise level, too. Airflow is also an issue; if the peripheral
bays are less cramped, you get better cooling. Be prepared to buy
extension cables for your keyboard and monitor, though; vendors almost
never include enough flex.</P
><P
>The airflow thing is a good argument for a full- or mid-tower rather
than the &#8216;baby tower&#8217; cases some vendors offer. However, smaller
towers are getting more attractive as boards and devices shrink and
more functions migrate onto the motherboard. A state of the art
system, with all 3" disks, 300W power supply, half-size motherboard,
on-board SATA and 4GB of RAM sockets, and half-sized expansion cards,
will fit into a baby or midsized tower with ample room for expansion;
and the whole thing will fit under a desk and make less noise than a
classic tower.</P
><P
>For users with really heavy expandability requirements,
rackmount PC cases do exist (ask prospective vendors). Typically a
rackmount case will have pretty much the same functionality as an
ordinary PC case. But, you can then buy drive racks (complete with
power supply), etc. to expand into. Also, you can buy passive
backplanes with up to 20 or so slots. You can either put a CPU card in
one of the slots, or connect it to an ordinary motherboard through one
of the slots.</P
><P
>Since USB has taken over most forms of detachable peripheral, a good
feature to look for in a case is USB ports mounted at the top forward edge
where it's easy to plug in digital cameras and the like.</P
></DIV
><DIV
CLASS="sect2"
><H2
CLASS="sect2"
><A
NAME="power"
></A
>3.5. Power Supplies and Fans</H2
><P
>A lot of people treat power supplies as a commodity, so many
interchangeable silver bricks. We know better &#8212; cheap power supplies
go bad, and when they go bad they have a nasty habit of taking out the
delicate electronics they're feeding. Also, the power supply tends to be
the noisiest component in your system.</P
><P
>Give preference to supplies with a Underwriter's Laboratories rating.
There's some controversy over optimum wattage level. On the one hand, you
want enough wattage for expansion. On the other, big supplies are noisier,
and if you draw too little current for the rating the delivered voltage can
become unstable. And the expected wattage load from peripherals is
dropping steadily. On the other hand, processors and their cooling fans
eat a lot more power than they used to.</P
><P
>The choice is generally between 200W and 300W. After some years of
deprecating 300W-and-up supplies as overkill, I'm now persuaded it's time
to go back to them; a modern processor can consume 50-75W by itself, and
for the newer dual-processor board the power supply needs to be rated 450W
or up.</P
><P
>Processors on modern motherboards run hot enough that all vendors
have gone to embedded temperature sensors and variable-speed
thermostat-controlled fans, out sheer self-defense (this used to be
a high-end only feature).</P
><P
>To cut noise, look for 120mm fans rather than the old-style 80mm
muffin fans. These can move the same amount of air per minute rotating at a
lower tip speed, which means less vortex formation and less noise. These
are now becoming standard even on cheap white-box hardware.</P
><P
>In garden-variety tower cases there often isn't enough airflow to
cool all components effectively with a single fan, even going at full
speed. And the single fan in the power supply was basically designed to
cool the power supply, not the components in the case. This is why
processors and some graphics cards have their own fans now.</P
><P
>A few years ago PCs often had two or more case fans in addition to
the power-supply fan. This made sense in the era of 80mm fans and lots of
expansion cards obstructing the airflow, but it was noisy. Nowadays, with
sound and graphics and Ethernet integrated onto motherboards, expansion
cards are much less common (and processors carry their own mini-fans).
Thus, today's standard is to mount one 120mm fan, usually low and forward
just beneath the disk-drive stack. This is much quieter, like by a factor
of three or four.</P
><P
>The noise produced by a fan is not just a function of the speed with
which it turns. It also depends on the nature of the airflow produced by
the fan blades and the bearings of the rotor. If the blades cause lots of
turbulent airflow, the fan produces lots of noise. One brand of fans that
is much more silent than most others even if going at full throttle is
<A
HREF="http://www.papstplc.com/"
TARGET="_top"
>Papst</A
>.
</P
></DIV
><DIV
CLASS="sect2"
><H2
CLASS="sect2"
><A
NAME="motherboards"
></A
>3.6. Motherboards</H2
><P
>Provided you exercise a little prudence and stay out of the price
basement, motherboards and BIOS chips don't vary much in quality. There
are only six or so major brands of motherboard inside all those cases and
they're pretty much interchangeable; brand premiums are low to nonexistent
and cost is strictly tied to maximum speed and bus type. There are only
four major brands of BIOS chip (AMI, Phoenix, Mylex, Award) and not much to
choose between 'em but the look of the self-test screens (even the
<SPAN
CLASS="QUOTE"
>"name"</SPAN
> vendors use lightly customized versions of these). One
advantage Unix buyers have is that Unixes are built not to rely on the BIOS
code (because it can't be used in protected mode without more pain than
than it's worth). If your BIOS will boot properly, you're usually going to
be OK.</P
><P
>Some good features to look for in a motherboard include:</P
><P
></P
><UL
><LI
><P
>Gold-plated contacts in the expansion slots and RAM
sockets. Base-metal contacts tend to grow an oxidation layer which
can cause intermittent connection faults that look like bad RAM chips
or boards. (This is why, if your hardware starts flaking out, one of
the first things to do is jiggle or remove the boards and reseat them,
and press down on the RAM chips to reseat them as well &#8212;this may
break up the oxidation layer. If this doesn't work, rubbing what
contacts you can reach with a soft eraser is a good fast way to remove
the oxidation film. Beware, some hard erasers, including many pencil
erasers, can strip off the plating, too!)</P
></LI
><LI
><P
>The board should be speed-rated as high as your
processor, of course. It's good if it's rated higher, so upgrade to a
faster processor is just a matter of dropping in the chip and a new
crystal.</P
></LI
></UL
><P
>(I used to have "Voltage, temperature and fan speed monitoring
hardware." on this list. But processors run so hot nowadays that all
current motherboards have it.)</P
><P
>The dominant form factor is still ATX. Intel tried to replace it
with a new standard called BTX in late 2004-2005, but failed; the proposal
was effectively withdrawn in 2006. In January 2007 AMD announced a <A
HREF="http://www.dtxpc.org/"
TARGET="_top"
>DTX</A
> specification for small-form-factor
PCs; it seems also to have sunk without trace.</P
></DIV
><DIV
CLASS="sect2"
><H2
CLASS="sect2"
><A
NAME="AEN238"
></A
>3.7. Monitor and Video</H2
><P
>The largest user-visible change since the last major update of this
guide is that the CRT (cathode-ray tube) is dead. The manufacturers shut
down their production lines in late 2004; the remaining CRTs out there are
old stock that's been sitting in warehouses. The only reason to buy one
since then has been to get high-end resolution at a price lower than the
insanely expensive high-end flatscreens; with 1920x1440 flatscreens having
become generally available at reasonable prices even that
reason is gone. It's all flatscreens now, baby.</P
><P
>On flatscreens, only two statistics matter; pixel size and response
time. The biggest functional drawback of flatscreens relative to CRTs is
that they refresh more slowly, because cheical reactions in a flatscreen
pixel take longer than remodulating a flying electron beam. You'll never
notice this during ordinary desktop use, but it can cause streakiness and
artifacts when you're playing games or viewing movies. If you're going to
do that a lot, the price premium for a flatscreen with better response time
may be worth it.</P
><P
>Next, buy your card (if you have to; see next paragraph). This used
to be complicated, with issues like matching the video bandwidths of the
card and the CRT, and the amount of display memory. Now (unless you are a
gamer or have similarly extreme 3D acceleration requirements) it's simple;
all cards have enough display memory for every resolution in use, and the
issues are software (does it have an open-source driver, and do you
care?)</P
><P
>It's actually fairly likely you'll never buy a video card again.
Very capable graphics chips are routinely integrated onto motherboards now;
unless you're a gamer or somebody else who absolutely must have the latest
wheeze in 3D acceleration, they'll be good enough. Even this is not
a stable situation, as 3D acceleration is commoditizing too.</P
><P
>I used to carry a lot of material on different video standards,
interlacing, and flicker. That stuff is all obsolete now.</P
><P
>Here's what to look for on the monitor spec sheet:</P
><P
></P
><UL
><LI
><P
>Screen size and format. Usually measured in
diagonal inches. Most displays are now in a <SPAN
CLASS="QUOTE"
>"widescreen"</SPAN
>
format (16:10 ratio of width:height) rather than the older 5:4 or 4:3
ratios common for CRTs and older flat panel screens. A <SPAN
CLASS="QUOTE"
>"19
inch"</SPAN
> widescreen monitor generally has considerably fewer pixels
than a <SPAN
CLASS="QUOTE"
>"19 inch"</SPAN
> 5:4 ratio one. Unfortunately, this chane is
bad for pogrammers, as it tends to lose us the vertical pixel resolution we
want for editor windows.</P
></LI
><LI
><P
>Screen resolution. 1280x1024 is now low end on the
desktop. Seventeen inch 1280x1024 screens are the bargain basement now,
many manufacturers have already switched production to 19 inch widescreen
1440x900 screens instead. The cost difference between such screens and 20
inch 1680x1050 screens is very small, making the 20 inch screens a better
choice unless funds (or desktop space!) are very tight.</P
></LI
><LI
><P
>5ms or lower response time. 3ms is better. There is some
marketing-speak going on in the way the response time is specified (grey to
gray rather than black to white) but since most manufacturers do it this
way these times are usually comparable between different manufacturers
screens.</P
></LI
><LI
><P
>Does it have a tilt-and-swivel base? Adequate
controls, including both horizontal and vertical size and horizontal
and vertical centering? A color-temperature control is a plus; the last is
particularly important if you compose graphics on screen for hardcopy
from a printer.</P
></LI
></UL
><P
>If you can, buy your monitor from someplace that will let you
see the same monitor (the very unit you will walk out the door with,
not a different or `demo' unit of the same model) that will be on your
system. There's significant quality variation (even in "premium" monitor
brands) even among monitors of the same make and model.</P
></DIV
><DIV
CLASS="sect2"
><H2
CLASS="sect2"
><A
NAME="dvd"
></A
>3.8. DVD Drives</H2
><P
>DVD drives have two main uses in computer systems: playback of video
DVDs, and use for data storage (either installation media or backups, or
even as a primary drive in a few specialized systems).</P
><P
>DVD video playback used to be problematic on Unix due to various
stupid copy-protection schemes in firmware, but they have long since
been cracked. These days, any SATA DVD will do fine.</P
><P
>DVD burners (drives that can read and write CDROM media as well as
several kinds of DVD media) are now low cost and useful. The SATA interface
has taken over here, too. Linux and most current PC Unix-like systems will
work fine with either interface, which is good as most PCs now ship with
one.</P
></DIV
><DIV
CLASS="sect2"
><H2
CLASS="sect2"
><A
NAME="sound"
></A
>3.9. Sound Cards and Speakers</H2
><P
>You can't buy a really bad sound card any more. Even low-end
sound cards or the sound chips embedded in a lot of PC motherboards
these days support support all these features:</P
><P
></P
><UL
><LI
><P
>16-bit sampling (for 65536 dynamic levels rather
than 256).</P
></LI
><LI
><P
>Mono and stereo support.</P
></LI
><LI
><P
>Full-duplex mode.</P
></LI
><LI
><P
>Sampling rate of 44.1KHz (CD-quality).</P
></LI
><LI
><P
>MIDI interface via a standard 15-pin D-shell
connector.</P
></LI
><LI
><P
>RCA output jacks for headphones or speakers.</P
></LI
><LI
><P
>A microphone jack for sound input.</P
></LI
></UL
><P
>If you are interested in multi-track digital recording, two
particularly good choices are the M-Audio Delta, or RME Hammerfall series
of cards. Decent (and lower cost!) two-channel cards for more normal use
are those using the ICE1712 (Envy24) and ICE1724 (Envy24HT) audio chips.
For normal users, though, the on-motherboard chips will work fine.</P
><P
>A rather comprehensive list of sound cards and chips supported by the
ALSA project, which is the main way sound cards are supported under Linux,
can be found at <A
HREF="http://www.alsa-project.org/main/index.php/Matrix:Main"
TARGET="_top"
>ALSA Sound
Card Matrix</A
>.</P
><P
>In speakers, look for a magnetically-shielded enclosure with volume,
bass and treble controls. Some speakers run off the card's 4-watt signal;
others are <SPAN
CLASS="QUOTE"
>"self-powered"</SPAN
>, using batteries or a separate power
supply. Your major buying choice is which one of these options to pursue.
Usually you'll want separately-powered speakers. If appropriate for your
listening habits, a pair of decent headphones will get you better quality
sound for the money compared to speakers.</P
><P
>One final, important tip: that audio cable from your CD-ROM back to
the sound card is used only when you play audio CD-ROMs through your
speakers. Software-generated sound goes through the system bus, so you can
play games with sound even if your sound board or motherboard won't accept
the audio cable connector.</P
></DIV
><DIV
CLASS="sect2"
><H2
CLASS="sect2"
><A
NAME="modems"
></A
>3.10. Modems</H2
><P
>Demand for (dialup telephone) modems is dropping as more and more
people get broadband Internet through DSL and cable. This section still
has as much detail as it does only because (a) there are people out beyond
the exurbs who can't get broadband, and (b) there are one or two remaining
traps for the unwary.</P
><P
>The modem market has stabilized and standardized. If you can spend
$59, get a U.S. Robotics V.92 USB external. You can then know that you've
got the best and skip the rest of this section. If you really must
economize, spend $39 for the internal-card version (but you'll probably
regret the $20 first time you have to do diagnostics).</P
><DIV
CLASS="note"
><P
></P
><TABLE
CLASS="note"
WIDTH="100%"
BORDER="0"
><TR
><TD
WIDTH="25"
ALIGN="CENTER"
VALIGN="TOP"
><IMG
SRC="../images/note.gif"
HSPACE="5"
ALT="Note"></TD
><TD
ALIGN="LEFT"
VALIGN="TOP"
><P
>If you live somewhere with <EM
>really</EM
> bad
telephone lines, the U.S. Robotics V.92 Business Modem may be truly "the
best" for your needs, though it is about four times the price of the
U.S. Robotics V.92 USB external, which is marketed for home use. See the
<A
HREF="http://www.usrobotics.com"
TARGET="_top"
>U.S. Robotics</A
> web site for
current product numbers and more detailed specifications.</P
></TD
></TR
></TABLE
></DIV
><P
>The modem market is like consumer electronics (and unlike the
computer market as a whole) in that price is a very poor predictor of
performance. For ordinary file transfers, some $50 modems are better than
some $150 modems. Paying top dollar mainly buys you better tolerance of
poor connections and better performance at heavy-duty bi-directional
transfers (such as you would generate, for exmaple, using SLIP or PPP over
a leased line to an Internet provider).</P
><P
>In today's market all modems do a nominal 56kbps &#8212;V.90 and V.92
plus V.29 or V.17 fax transmission and reception (over plain old phone
lines you won't get more than 53K of that). You don't see much in the way
of slow/cheap to fast/expensive product ranges within a single brand,
because competition is fierce and for many modem board designs (those
featuring DSP (Digital Signal Processor) chips run by a program in ROM)
adding a new protocol is basically a software change.</P
><DIV
CLASS="sect3"
><H3
CLASS="sect3"
><A
NAME="modem_format"
></A
>3.10.1. Internal vs. External</H3
><P
>Most modems come in two packagings: internal, designed to fit in a PC
card slot, and external, with its own case, power supply, and front-panel
lights. Typically you'll pay $20 to $30 more for an external modem than
you will for the internal equivalent. You'll also need a serial or USB
port to connect your external modem to.</P
><P
>Pay that premium &#8212; being able to see the blinkenlights on
the external ones will help you understand and recover from
pathological situations. For example, if your Unix system is prone to
<SPAN
CLASS="QUOTE"
>"screaming-tty"</SPAN
> syndrome, you'll quickly learn to recognize the
pattern of flickers that goes with it. Punch the hangup/reset button
on an external modem and you're done &#8212; whereas with an internal
modem, you have to go root and flounder around killing processes and
maybe cold-boot the machine just to reset the card.</P
><P
>See <A
HREF="http://linuxmafia.com/~rick/faq/"
TARGET="_top"
>Rick's
Rants</A
> for extended discussion of this point.</P
></DIV
><DIV
CLASS="sect3"
><H3
CLASS="sect3"
><A
NAME="modem_pitfalls"
></A
>3.10.2. Pitfalls to Avoid</H3
><P
>Don't buy a serial (RS232C) modem. This used to be the only kind
there was, but they were always a bitch to configure and troubleshoot.
Go USB instead; the sanity you save may be your own.</P
><P
>If the abbreviation <SPAN
CLASS="QUOTE"
>"RPI"</SPAN
> occurs anywhere on the box,
don't even consider buying the modem. RPI (Rockwell Protocol Interface) is
a proprietary <SPAN
CLASS="QUOTE"
>"standard"</SPAN
> that allows modem makers to save a
few bucks at your expense by using a cheap-jack Rockwell chipset that
doesn't do error correction. Instead, it hands the job off to a modem
driver which (on a Unix machine) you will not have.</P
><P
>Also avoid anything called a <SPAN
CLASS="QUOTE"
>"Windows Modem"</SPAN
> or
<SPAN
CLASS="QUOTE"
>"WinModem"</SPAN
>, <SPAN
CLASS="QUOTE"
>"HCF"</SPAN
>, or <SPAN
CLASS="QUOTE"
>"HSP"</SPAN
>; these
lobotomized pieces of crap require a Windows DLL to run. They will eat up
to 25% of your processor clocks during transfers, and hog high-priority
interrupts (causing your machine to stall under Windows even if your
processor still has spare cycles). </P
><P
>A good way to avoid falling into the WinModem trap is to look for
the designation "OEM modem". This is apparently the new industry-speak
for a modem with an on-board harware DSP. Occasionally you'll see these
called "gaming modems".</P
></DIV
><DIV
CLASS="sect3"
><H3
CLASS="sect3"
><A
NAME="AEN317"
></A
>3.10.3. Fax Modems</H3
><P
>Many modems come with bundled Windows fax software that is at best
useless under Unix, and at worst a software kluge to cover inadequate
hardware. Avoid these bundles and buy a bare modem &#8212; it's cheaper,
and lowers the likelihood that something vital to your communications needs
has been left out of the hardware.</P
><P
>Avoid <SPAN
CLASS="QUOTE"
>"Class 1"</SPAN
> and <SPAN
CLASS="QUOTE"
>"Class 2"</SPAN
> modems. Look
for <SPAN
CLASS="QUOTE"
>"Class 2.0"</SPAN
> for the full EIA-standard command set.</P
><P
>Fax capability is included with effectively all modems these days; it's
cheap for manufacturers, being basically a pure software add-on. The
CCITT also sets fax protocol standards. Terms to know:</P
><P
></P
><DIV
CLASS="variablelist"
><DL
><DT
>V.29</DT
><DD
><P
> CCITT standard for Group III fax encoding at 9600bps</P
></DD
><DT
>V.17</DT
><DD
><P
> CCITT standard for Group III fax encoding at
14400bps</P
></DD
></DL
></DIV
><P
>There's a separate series of standards for software control of fax
modems over the serial (or USB) line maintained by the Electronics Industry
Association and friends. These are:</P
><P
><I
CLASS="firstterm"
>Class 1</I
> &#8212; base EIA standard for fax
control as extensions to the Hayes AT command set.</P
><P
><I
CLASS="firstterm"
>Class 2.0</I
> &#8212; enhanced EIA standard
including compression, error correction, station ID and other
features.</P
><P
><I
CLASS="firstterm"
>Class 2</I
> &#8212; marketroidian for anything
between Class 1 and Class 2.0. Different <SPAN
CLASS="QUOTE"
>"Class 2"</SPAN
> modems
implement different draft subsets of the 2.0 standard, so <SPAN
CLASS="QUOTE"
>"Class
2"</SPAN
> fax software won't necessarily drive any given <SPAN
CLASS="QUOTE"
>"Class
2"</SPAN
> modem.</P
><P
>There's also a proprietary Intel "standard" called CAS, Communicating
Applications Specification. Ignore it; only Intel products support it.</P
></DIV
></DIV
><DIV
CLASS="sect2"
><H2
CLASS="sect2"
><A
NAME="printers"
></A
>3.11. Printers</H2
><P
>The most important thing to optimize nowadays is cost of consumables.
Printer manufacturers, especially at the low end, have adopted a model
under which they sell printers with near-zero or even negative margin, then
gouge you horribly on the cost of cartridges and ink. Common tactics
include (a) shipping half-filled "starter" cartridges with your printer, so
you have to replace much sooner than you'd think, (b) toner-empty
sensors deliberately miscalibrated to blink the error light on your printer
when they're still a quarter to a third full, and (c) electronic
countermeasures to lock out cheap third-party refills - in one notorious
case, a printer manufacturer used the DMCA to sue refill vebdoers who
circumvented these!</P
><P
>Better dealers (the Staples chain, for example) will show you
a chart covering price and consumable-cost-per-page for all the models
they carry. If you don't see this, leave. When you do, estimate your
monthly print volume and trade off up-front against consumables price.
appropriately. Hint: The vendors count on you underestimating your volume
and consumables cost, and you usually will. Payiing a few extra bucks
up front to lower that cost is smart.</P
><P
>Other than that, there really isn't all that much to be said about
printers; the market is thoroughly commoditized and printer capabilities
pretty much independent of the rest of your hardware. The PC-clone
magazines will tell you what you need to know about print quality, speed,
features, etc. The business users they feed on are obsessed with all these
things.</P
><P
>(There used to be a problem with <SPAN
CLASS="QUOTE"
>"GDI printers"</SPAN
> and
<SPAN
CLASS="QUOTE"
>"WinPrinters"</SPAN
> that only worked with Windows &#8212;they
required special drivers that took over your CPU to do image processing,
These were such a bad idea that they have basically disappeared off the
market.)</P
><P
>Most popular printers are supported by GhostScript, and so it's easy
to make them do PostScript. If you're buying any letter-quality
printer (laser or ink-jet), check to see if it's on GhostScript's
supported device list &#8212; otherwise you'll have to pay a premium for
Postscript capability! Postscript is still high-end in the Windows
market, but it's ubiquitous in the Unix world.</P
><P
>Warning, however: if you're using ghostscript on a non-Postscript
printer, printspeed will be slow, especially with a serial printer. A
bitmapped 600 dpi page has a <EM
>lot</EM
> of pixels on it. At
today's prices, paying the small premium for Postscript capability makes
sense.</P
><P
>If you're buying a printer for home, an inkjet is a good choice
because it doesn't use gobs of power and you won't have the
toner/ozone/noise/etc mess that you do with a laser. If all
you want is plain-ASCII, dot-matrix is cheaper to buy and run &#8212; if
you can find one. Inexpensive ink-jets and lasers have almost driven
them off the market.</P
><P
>Inkjets are great in that they're cheap, many of them do color, and
there are many kinds which aren't PCL but are understood by
Ghostscript anyway. If you print very infrequently (less than weekly,
say), you should be careful to buy a printer whose print head gets
replaced with every ink cartrige: infrequent use can lead to the
drying of the ink, both in the ink cartrige and in the print head.
The print heads you don't replace with the cartrige tend to cost
nearly as much as the printer (~$200 for an Epson Stylus 800) once the
warranty runs out (the third such repair, just after the warranty
expired, totalled one informant's Stylus 800). Be careful, check
print head replacement costs ahead of time, and run at least a
cleaning cycle if you don't actually print anything in a given week.
(Conversely, toner starts out dry, and ribbon ink won't evaporate for
years...if you truly print only rarely, but neither a dot matrix nor a
laser makes sense, consider buying no printer and taking your
PostScript files to a copy shop...)</P
><P
>Nowadays, a lot of printers are moving away from parallel-port
interfaces to USB. This is a good idea, because USB devices announce
themselves to the host computer and can be automatically configured.
Parallel ports (and serial ports for that matter) are becoming obsolete.
Many new PC motherboards no longer include them.</P
><P
>Many printers (even some sub-$100 models) now come with a network
(10/100 Ethernet) interface. This make sharing them trivial, and also
avoids having to leave a desktop PC powered on so others (using notebooks
perhaps) can print to your printer. Therefore, such printers are worth
considering in many networked environments, including home networks.</P
><P
>In the near future, new motherboards may stop including parallel and
serial ports altogether. That's another good reason to go with a USB-
or Ethernet-capable printer.</P
></DIV
><DIV
CLASS="sect2"
><H2
CLASS="sect2"
><A
NAME="power_protection"
></A
>3.12. Power Protection</H2
><P
>I strongly recommend that you buy a UPS to protect your hardware and
data. MOV-filtered power bars make nice fuses (they're cheap to replace),
but they're not enough. I have written a <A
HREF="http://www.tldp.org/HOWTO/UPS-HOWTO"
TARGET="_top"
>UPS
HOWTO</A
> that provides more complete coverage of what used to be in
this section.</P
></DIV
><DIV
CLASS="sect2"
><H2
CLASS="sect2"
><A
NAME="rfi"
></A
>3.13. Radio Frequency Interference</H2
><P
>(Thanks to Robert Corbett &#60;Robert.Corbett@Eng.Sun.COM&#62; for
contributing much of this section)</P
><P
>Radio Frequency Interference (RFI) is a growing problem with PC-class
machines. Today's processor speeds are such that the electromagnetic noise
generated by a PC's circuitry in normal operation can degrade or jam radio
and TV reception in the neighborhood. Such noise is called Radio Frequency
Interference (RFI). Computers, as transmitting devices, are regulated by
the Federal Communications Commission (FCC).</P
><P
>FCC regulations recognize two classes of computer:</P
><P
>If a PC is to be used in a home or apartment, it must be
certified to be FCC class B. If it is not, neighbors have a legal
right to prevent its use. FCC class A equipment is allowed in
industrial environments.</P
><P
>Many systems are not FCC class B. Some manufacturers build
boxes that are class B and then ship them with class A monitors or
external disk drives. Even the cables can be a source of RFI.</P
><P
>It pays to be cautious. For example, the Mag MX17F is FCC class B.
There are less expensive versions of the MX17 that are not. The Mag MX17
is a great monitor. It would be painful to own one and not be allowed to
use it.</P
><P
>An upgradeable system poses special problems. A system that is
FCC class B with a 33 MHz CPU might not be when the CPU is upgraded to
a 50 or 66 MHz CPU. Some upgrades require knockouts in the case to be
removed. If a knockout is larger than whatever replaces it, RFI can
leak out through the gap. Grounded metal shims can eliminate the
leaks.</P
><P
>Even Class B systems don't mix well with wireless phonesets (not cellular
phones, but the kind with a base station and antennaed headset). You'll often
find a wireless phone hard to use withing 20 feet of a Class B machine.</P
><P
>To cut down on RFI, get a good metal case with tight joints, or at
least make sure any plastic one you buy has a conductive lining. You
can also strip the painted metal-to-metal contacting parts of paint so
that there's good conductive metal contact. Paint's a poor conductor
in most cases, so you can get some benefit from this.</P
></DIV
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